Andiamo a Ficuzza!
When the West Village comes to mind, one often thinks of great coffee and legendary bars where history-changing bricks were thrown, but solid Italian food is often an afterthought. Welcome Ficuzza to the conversation, solidifying itself as a strong contender for a pre-bar dining destination.
Steps away from iconic queer nightlife like The Stonewall Inn and Playhouse, Ficuzza welcomes all backgrounds - just as if you were going to grandma’s house for Sunday lunch. I was graciously invited to dine with NABI Editor-in-Chief Milly and catch up after our chaotic art gallery crawl with 80s local legend Tabboo! As I waited for her to arrive, I enjoyed the sun set over the 7th Avenue sidewalks, casting its fleeting warmth on joggers and tourists alike.
Rosso Foccacia
To start our meal, we ordered meatballs, bread. and cuddiruni, a Sicilian red flatbread that tasted like an elevated version of Crazy Bread from Domino’s (complimentary). That’s to say that it was so flavorful, covered in a nice bed of Pecorino, breadcrumbs, and oregano, along with a tantalizing tomato sauce. Don’t worry - I made sure to pay homage to my Italian-American roots by dunking my bread in the sauce that these meatballs once called home.
Margherita pizza
The pizza was next, and we wanted to try one staple slice as well as a more bold flavor. We ordered a classic margherita as well as a mortadella and pistachio pizza, the former holding it down as a strong base slice and the latter being an exciting combination of flavors I have never tried before. Pistachios have always been reserved for office snacking or the occasional gelato, but combining them with the savory, meaty flavor of the mortadella and the smooth taste of the cheese made all three flavors shine in a tantalizing trifecta.
Mortadella e pistacchio pizza
Soon following these slices were two beautiful pasta dishes, the gnocchi al pesto and rigatoni alla norma. Both were fantastic, but the fresh flavors of the pesto were perfect for New York’s soon-to-be spring. The basil tasted fresh and the eggplant in the rigatoni dish was tender, and combining it with freshly shredded cheese never hurts.
Milly and I continued our meal over retrospective conversation about our favorite NYC restaurants, time abroad, and dating red flags as we got our dessert. The perfect end to a three-hour meal, the tiramisu and tortino realmuto arrived at out perfectly-lit wooden table, nearly bringing a tear to our eyes and full bellies. The tiramisu stole the show, with moist ladyfingers and sweet cream, topped with a generous dusting of cocoa powder. The tortino had a great hazelnut center, adding some nice texture to the decadent chocolate mousse and dark chocolate ganache.
The name Ficuzza refers to the village in Sicily where founder Francesco Realmuto calls home. The population of the village is 112, and there is an undeniable beauty in the fact that such a distant and remote place can breed a New York restaurant legend in the making. With a Realmuto location in Penn Station as well as next door to Ficuzza, the Big Apple gets a newfound source of flavor from a region more widely known for lemons. Ficuzza is unassuming, classic, and a great spot for no-fuss Sicilian staples. In a city desperate to constantly impress vapid influencers and tourists with gimmicky concepts, Ficuzza offers great tasting food without reinventing the wheel - and we will be back for another spin.