Corn Tortillas in a Mexican Style: Let’s Taco ‘Bout it!
According to the viral “Corn Kid,” (AKA Tariq Tull), who took the internet by storm back in August of 2022, it’s hard to “imagine a more beautiful thing” than corn. A “big lump with knob” that “has the juice,” corn deserves to be celebrated in song. And to be entirely fair, the corn-obsessed seven-year-old did have a point. We should all be eating more corn! And if there was any doubt? “Hey Alexa, cue up the Corn song!”
One restaurant that’s taking corn to a whole other level is Esse Taco in Williamsburg. Acclaimed chef and restaurateur Enrique Olivera, famous for his two Michelin star restaurant Pujol, recently opened up a taco shop, which serves up Mexico City-style tacos from a coveted corner spot in Williamsburg.
They source their heirloom corn varietals from independent Mexican farmers and make their tortillas fresh daily. They start by nixtamalizing corn with lime water, then pounding their corn into masa with volcanic stones, before pressing them into tortilla shapes.
Upon entering, you’re greeted by two ordering kiosks, so you can take your time deciding whether you actually want that extra taco. Then you stand at one of the many metal barrels with a napkin centerpiece to wipe off all that taco juice. By ridding the interior space of tables and chairs, Esse successfully recreates a more “street taco” vibe with both the decor and eating experience.
Each of their tacos comes with jardin: a trio of cilantro, onions, and scallions (“It’s not a taco without it!”) as well as three tasty salsa options that you can nab at the pickup counter: Salsa Tatemada, (charred tomato and tomatillos) Salsa Verde (fresh serrano and mint) and Salsa Guacachile (habanero and fresno chilies). You can also opt for a “Gringa-style” taco, which means you can switch out your corn tortilla for a flour one with melted cheese.
Here’s the rundown of what we got:
The Pork Adobado - Served with pineapple butter and jardin, the pork adobado is a great balance of sweet and savory. This was my personal favorite taco of the night and a shining example of why fatty pork and punchy pineapple are a match made in taco heaven.
The Ribeye Steak Perhaps the most interesting, the ribeye is served as thin slices instead of being chopped up into bits. As an Asian who eats a lot of hot pot, it was giving me hot pot meat (especially with the scallions present). I didn’t mind it, but kind of missed some flavorful burnt ends.
The Chicken “Poc Chuc” - A refreshing bite! Served with pickled onions in a “xnipec style,” these were decent but felt a bit like eating a chicken breast taco. Meaty for sure, but I wish it brought a bit more to the table in flavor or texture.
Oyster Mushroom -As far as vegetarian options go, my fellow food tasters said this was decent for a mushroom taco. The mushrooms themselves are mesquite-smoked and come with a spread of black beans. *Disclaimer: I didn’t actually taste this one*
Would I come back? Debatable. At five to six dollars a taco, it’s definitely a pricier taco compared to the equally popular Taqueria Ramierez down the street, but you are paying for quality ingredients. If I’m in the area and need a quicker, lighter meal, I would pop in – at least to try the Cosme-inspired corn husk meringue dessert.
